Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 5)

 Day 5: 2025/4/20 Pangboche (3,950m) to Dingboche (4,350m)

Sunny most of the day, cloudy in the afternoon.

It started raining yesterday around 5 p.m. and continued through the night. This morning, when I opened the curtain, I was surprised to see a clear blue sky-what a glorious Easter Sunday morning!

Since today’s walk was short, we left at 8:45 a.m. This has become our routine: on full-day walks, we have breakfast at 7 a.m. and set out by 7:45, stopping for lunch at tea houses along the way. On shorter days like today, breakfast is at 8 a.m., and we depart at 8:45.

We climbed briefly before settling into a balcony walk, surrounded by mountains above and a clear river flowing below. After two and a half days of overcast and rainy weather, we were finally rewarded with full views of the beautiful mountains. Now, being lower than yesterday’s high point, we see less of Everest; instead, Lhotse dominates the view. Ama Dablam, which had been eluding us for the past couple of days, now towers above us on the other side of the river. The mountains are so high and majestic, clad in white against a cloudless, cobalt-blue sky. It’s an amazing sight! Trekkers and climbers are like pilgrims, yearning to behold these peaks-for some, their wishes are granted; for others, they are not. 

Now that we have officially passed 4,000 meters, you might wonder how I’m feeling. It’s a mix of good and bad. The good news is I don’t have altitude sickness-at least not yet. I can walk, albeit slowly, eat, and sleep. The bad news is I’ve had a sore throat since last evening. I’m not sure if I caught a virus from the woman who was coughing badly next to us at dinner on my first day, from the shower I took on the second day, or from something else. It’s common for people to get sick at high altitude. Many travelers here develop a cough due to dust, breathing cold, dry air through an open mouth, and sharing germs in communal spaces. This cough even has a name: “Khumbu cough.” I don’t have that yet. I don’t mind getting a little sick-I just hope it doesn’t turn into something serious, as harder days are ahead and I can’t afford to have compromised health. 

Despite this, I am grateful to be here. I thought of Mitch Hutchcraft, an adventurer I follow on Instagram, who set out to complete the world’s longest triathlon-from the UK to the top of Everest. He swam 34 km across the English Channel, cycled 10,000 km across Europe, and then ran 900 km from India to Nepal. That’s not all-he trekked to Everest Base Camp and still has to climb Everest. He’s doing this for adventure, to challenge himself, and to raise money for veterans and animals. Last I checked, he was already at Base Camp, a week ahead of me.

I also thought of a documentary I watched on the plane, The Mountain Within Me, about an English rugby player whose promising career was cut short by a spinal injury from a diving accident. He had to rebuild his life and identity, eventually learning to walk again, overcoming many challenges, and founding a nonprofit to help others like him. Thinking of these inspiring people, I felt grateful to be here, fighting my own fight. We each have our own mountains to climb-whether 1,000m, 4,000m, or 8,000m. No matter the height, we must face them and discover if we have the mental fortitude and strength to overcome our doubts and weaknesses. 

As I walked, I realized I felt pretty comfortable-occasionally a bit lightheaded, but nothing serious. In fact, my legs felt light. Of course, I breathed hard on the uphills and my throat was dry, but today’s gentle slope didn’t feel bad at all. As I reflected on how good I felt, it dawned on me that it wasn’t because I was strong, but because my guide, Jungbu, had set the pace perfectly for me. Later, I asked him when he figured out what pace suited me. He said it was back in Lukla-on the very first day! What a fool I am! 

After a little over three hours of walking, we arrived in Dingboche, at 4,350 meters, just before noon. We’ll be staying here for two nights. The next two days will still be relatively easy. Tomorrow, I’ll do an acclimatization hike up the hill, and the day after, we’ll head to Chukung at 4,740m. Then comes a week of “final exams.” Will I be able to pass the Three Passes test? I’m not sure, but I need to find out. 

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 4)

 Day 4 2025/4/19 Khumjung(3790m) to Pangboche(3950m)

Cloudy, sunny at Tengboche

Getting rid of upside-down jet lag isn’t easy. My sleep has been poor for the past few nights. Even though I woke up at 1 a.m. again last night, I somehow managed to get a more or less decent rest. Thankfully, I didn’t come down with a cold from the shower two nights ago, so I was feeling good and excited about today’s walk.

After breakfast, we set out at 7:45 a.m. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on my side. On a clear day, we would have seen Ama Dablam and Thamserku, but today the mountains hid their beauty from us. So, we walked simply for walking’s sake -to reach the next place.

Leaving Khumjung, the road was not dusty at all, but once we joined the main trail, it was covered in dirt. I can imagine that on a dry, sunny day, with people and animals constantly passing by, it could get very dusty. That’s part of the reason trekkers and climbers often get the so-called “Khumbu cough.” Since we started from Khumjung, trekkers from Namche were still behind us, and because it was cloudy, the dust wasn’t bad at all.

I noticed a couple of local girls wearing slippers on the dusty, rocky road and thought about my Salomon shoes. They don’t look particularly impressive or excel at waterproofing, but they’re very comfortable and have served me well for almost 500 miles. I’ve worn them on the Huayhuash Circuit, the Tour du Mont Blanc, the Dolomites AV1, the Patagonia O Circuit, and now on the way to Everest Base Camp.

As I walked, I realized why Jungbu’s pacing suits me so well. Of course, he walks slowly, but his steps are also shorter since he’s not much taller than I am. Today, Dawa the porter walked with us, right behind me. Even though he carried a heavy load with both my luggage and his own, he walked so lightly I often couldn’t hear him at all. He truly is a “gentle” man-always smiling and doing whatever Jungbu asks. I also noticed that neither of them drinks much water. Jungbu carries just a 500ml Nalgene bottle, which I thought was too small, but I recently learned they share that one bottle!

After descending about 460 meters to the river, we reached another checkpoint. From there, it was a 600-meter climb. I noticed that whenever we started going uphill, Jungbu immediately slowed his pace to something like a meditative walk, which suited me perfectly. My legs felt fine, but my breathing was heavy and my heart was racing. For every 100 meters of elevation gain, Jungbu would stop to give me a short break. Climbing uphill on a cloudy day has its benefits-you don’t get too hot while exerting yourself. Before I knew it, we saw a monastery ahead and arrived at our lunch spot, Tangboche.

 

We went into a restaurant and ordered lunch. It was the first time I saw noodle soup on the menu; before, it was always chow mein or rice dishes, neither of which satisfied my craving for something warming and nutritious. Today, I happily settled for Korean noodles with egg for a change.

We weren’t completely out of luck with the weather. While waiting for my noodle soup, Jungbu said, “Look, you can see Mt. Everest now.” I followed his pointing finger and saw a white mountain range in front of us. In the middle was Everest, with just its peak sticking out a tiny bit. At first glance, you’d think it was just another peak in the range, but you realize it’s Everest only because it’s so tall! To the right was Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain at 8,500 meters-equally beautiful and majestic. To the left was the relatively lower Nuptse, at over 7,000 meters. The mountains were white, beautiful, and formidable all at once. Ama Dablam still hid its majestic figure from us; otherwise, it would have towered above since it’s so close.

Back at the restaurant, my noodles were waiting. They were nothing more than instant noodles you’d find at home, but here they cost 1,000 Rs. I enjoyed them anyway. Honestly, the food we’re getting is less than what each day requires. Climbers usually lose a lot of weight during their expeditions; I think trekkers do too. As the days go by, we’ll all get more haggard and thinner. For those who succeed in their missions, they gain darker skin and a Himalayan glow. The mountains will shape you-one way or another.

After lunch, we continued on. As we descended deeper into the valley, the mountains became less visible. In the flat part of the valley, I saw a dzopkyo (a yak-cow hybrid) walking alone. It turned out his companions were all ahead of him. He seemed to know his way and walked unhurriedly. I guess he was a slow hiker, just like me.

After a while, the weather turned bad again. Clouds rolled in and covered the mountains, and it got chilly. After crossing another suspension bridge, we followed the trail up to Pangboche, perched high at 3,950 meters, where we would rest for the night. Tomorrow, we will officially go above 4,000 meters.

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 3)

 Day 3: 2025/4/18 Namche Bazaar (3,440m) to Khumjung (3,790m)

Temperature: 32–44°F, cloudy, sunset at 6 pm.

Maybe because of jet lag or the altitude, I couldn’t sleep well last night and woke up at 1:30 a.m. feeling groggy. I had taken a not-so-hot shower the evening before, and it took a while for my hair to dry. The room was cold, so I had to sit inside my sleeping bag wearing my down jacket. I don’t think I’m sick, just cold, though I was a bit worried about catching something. Now I regret my decision a little, but with hot showers being rare on this trek, I couldn’t resist. In any case, it’s too late to worry about it now.

It rained for a long time overnight. In the morning, we briefly enjoyed a clear view of the mountains before the clouds quickly rolled in and covered them. 

Most people stay in Namche for two nights to help their bodies acclimatize. Usually, on the second day, trekkers do an acclimatization hike to a high viewpoint for a glimpse of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. My itinerary is a variation-instead of returning to Namche, we were supposed to continue to Kyangjuma at about 3,600 meters, only 160 meters higher than Namche, or so I thought. Somehow, things turned out differently.

We left at 8:45 a.m., climbing slowly and mingling with other hikers. It was cloudy but not too cold. After a while, we looked back and saw Namche below, nestled in the valley with its colorful roofs. Looking toward Lukla, I could see mountain ranges in varying shades of blue. Ahead, the landscape changed from green vegetation to bare rock, with snowy peaks and patches of fresh snow. 

At higher elevations, slow walking is key to controlling your breathing and heart rate. My guide, Jungbu, is a great pacer-step by step, never rushing. The guides here don’t use trekking poles and maintain even steps. I walked behind Jungbu, sometimes lost in thought, but mostly focused on my next step. Walking is good therapy; you can talk to yourself, think about many things, or nothing at all.

Midway, we stopped at Sagarmatha Next, a center focused on innovation in waste management and recycling. With two high seasons each year bringing over 40,000 visitors and local guides to the Khumbu Valley, the waste generated is staggering. Managing this waste is critical, given the region’s limited infrastructure and the logistical challenges of transporting refuse out of the valley. Sagarmatha Next, in partnership with local organization SPCC, was established to develop creative, sustainable solutions. A short video explains the project and raises awareness about waste control. There are art pieces made from trash on display, and visitors can participate in “Carry Me Back,” a crowdsourced waste removal system where everyone can help carry waste out of the region. 

We continued after our visit. The second ascent left me breathing hard. I tried to check my heart rate, but my watch read 84-maybe it was just following my step tempo. We were still below 3,800 meters. I wondered how I’d feel above 4,000 meters, knowing that 4,000 and above is another challenge, and 5,000 meters is something I have yet to experience. There’s no use worrying now; my strategy remains the same: walk slowly and take one day at a time.

We finally reached the Everest viewpoint, but thick clouds obscured everything. Descending toward what I assumed was Kyangjuma, we arrived before lunch and enjoyed a surprisingly tasty veggie curry. Jungbu drank what I thought was milk tea, but I later learned it was salt tea-a traditional Sherpa brew with salt, milk, butter, a bit of flour, and tea. Curious, I tried it and found it subtly flavored with tea.

After lunch, I wandered the quiet village street. Earlier, Jungbu had told me all the roofs in this village are green, unlike the colorful roofs in Namche, which is why it’s also called “Green Valley.” It was so quiet it felt almost lonely, with just a few shops selling locally made yak scarves, hats, and gloves, and only a handful of trekkers passing by. As the wind picked up and the air turned chilly, I headed back.

Later, when I reviewed my itinerary, I realized we weren’t actually in Kyangjuma at 3,600 meters as I had thought, but in Khumjung at 3,790 meters. When I asked Jungbu about it, he said it’s just down the road and the difference isn’t significant, though I’m still not sure what he meant. In any case, we’re already here, and there’s nothing I can do about it now. 

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 2)

Day 2: 2025/4/17 Phakding (2,610m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

Sunny in the morning, cloudy in the afternoon

Today was our first full day of hiking. We left at 7:30 a.m. The morning weather was nice with a clear sky. Walking along the “white/milk” river, we crossed five suspension bridges-it was easy to lose count!

With an 800-meter elevation gain, this trek is no walk in the park, but you could literally say it’s a walk through villages, at least for the first half. Tea houses line the trail, and people and animals travel in both directions, making this part of the trek quite lively-there’s nothing wild about it.

After two and a half hours of walking, we reached a checkpoint and officially entered Sagarmatha National Park.

The highlight of the day was the famous Hillary Bridge, named after Sir Edmund Hillary, the first person to climb Mount Everest. At 60 meters long and 135 meters above the Dudh Koshi River, it’s the tallest suspension bridge in Nepal. It’s a vital link to Everest Base Camp, and every trekker and climber crosses it. Beneath it lies the old Hillary Bridge, where Everest Bungee operates. Today, there were no daring/crazy young people jumping. I saw a sign advertising the bungee jump that made me chuckle: “Fear is fake, just do it.” I’m not sure if that would help!

The afternoon turned cloudy, and I was disappointed not to spot Mt. Everest at the first viewpoint. After more climbing, we finally arrived at today’s destination-Namche Bazaar. Nicknamed the Sherpa capital of Nepal, it’s a bustling trading center and the hub of the Khumbu region.

It’s recommended that trekkers stay two nights in Namche Bazaar, and most itineraries include a day hike on the second day. Instead of returning to Namche, we’ll continue on the trail, staying at Kayngjuma village, about 150 meters higher than Namche.

Namche is a lively place that sells everything a trekker might need, still at reasonable prices. Along the way, water flows down from higher up, and women can be seen doing laundry. The flowing water also turns prayer wheels. My tea house for tonight offers a paid hot shower, which I couldn’t resist-hot showers may be hard to come by after this!

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 1)

Everest Three Passes Trek 

Photo found Online

Date: 2025/4/16-5/1 

Distance: 160km

Tour Company: Higher Path Treks & Expeditions

Day 1: 2025/4/16 Kathmandu(1400m) to Lukla(2860m), then Phakding (2610m)

Getting to Lukla is the first hurdle. Our plane, originally scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu from Lukla the night before, was diverted to Manthali due to weather. The next morning, continued haze in Manthali delayed my flight multiple times-from 6 a.m. to 8 a.m., then to 10 a.m.-until we finally departed at 11:45 a.m.

The plane seats 19, but today there were only 14 passengers. Among them was a three-generation German family, including a five-year-old boy on his second trip to Nepal. The grandfather, who I later learned is 78 years old, completed the Everest Base Camp trek in 2015, and this is his 15th visit to Nepal. The boy’s parents, a couple who met during their first trip in 2002, are now on their ninth visit.

Less than ten minutes after our plane departed for Lukla, the haze above Kathmandu began to lift. Outside, the scenery was lush and green, dotted with scattered villages. Their only connection to the outside world is a winding road, parts of which look muddy and are vulnerable to landslides during bad weather.

Midway through the flight, we were informed that Lukla Airport was closed due to wind, and we had to divert to Manthali. So, I ended up stopping at Manthali after all, but flying there was still preferable to taking the 1 am. bus, as the long, winding road to Manthali would have been very tiring.

We waited in Manthali for an hour and a half before taking off again at 1:45 p.m., finally arriving in Lukla around 2:10 p.m. The landing was smooth; I couldn’t see the runway and felt nothing, leaving me a bit disappointed that I didn’t experience the full effect of landing at one of the most dangerous airports in the world.

My guide, Jungbu Sherpa, and my porter, Dawa, met me at Lukla airport. Both are young-33 years old. 

Lukla sits at 2,800 meters, while Phakding, where we stayed tonight, is at 2,610 meters.

My first night at a tea house