Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Epilogue)

 Epilogue (Which Should Have Been the Prologue)

I haven’t explained why I chose Everest Base Camp (EBC) or why I decided on the Three Passes trek.

I hadn’t really thought about Nepal until last December, just before Christmas, when a friend asked if I wanted to join them for EBC and Gokyo Lakes. I half-heartedly agreed to look into it.

Three years ago, I was invited to trek Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash-a 10-day, 9-night camping trip through the Andes and alpine lakes. That trek required walking and sleeping at elevations between 4,000 and 5,000 meters. Due to a flight delay, catching a bad cold early on, and not taking Diamox consistently, I struggled. Although I persevered, walking every step and crossing two 5,000-meter passes, but it was very tough. Afterwards, I concluded that maybe 5,000 meters was my limit, and with so many beautiful places to hike at lower altitudes, perhaps I should stick to those. For two years, I did. Even last fall, when I heard two friends were planning a trip to Nepal for this spring, I wasn’t interested.

But after that December invitation, I contacted several travel agencies in Nepal. The more I talked, the more interested I became. Inspired by another friend, I learned about the Three Passes route. She was planning to travel solo with a guide and porter in March. I discovered that the traditional EBC trek is an out-and-back route to Base Camp, which doesn’t even offer the best views of Everest. In contrast, the Three Passes or EBC + Gokyo Lakes routes form a loop, crossing two or three passes over 5,000 meters, and offer better scenery-which quickly became my goal. I also realized that solo travel would allow me to customize my plan and be more flexible, thus increasing my chances of success. Before I knew it, the idea became real.

In February, I finalized my trekking company-High Paths Treks and Expeditions-paid the deposit, and bought my plane tickets. While researching, I read somewhere, “If you can dream it, you can do it.” I dreamed of this, but could I actually do it? Before I left, I had serious self-doubt and suffered from imposter syndrome. I questioned my strength and fitness-who was I to think I could do this? I was so unsure that I told very few people about my plans, and I certainly didn’t mention attempting the more difficult Three Passes trek. But I also knew there was only one way to find out: by being there and fighting each day.

What’s more, although I enjoy solo travel, just weeks before leaving, I worried about being scammed. I’d have to pay the balance before receiving any services-what if the guide didn’t show up? These are things you don’t worry about with a group.

To make anything happen, you have to get to the starting line. Somehow, I got myself to Nepal and to the start. From there, it was about taking one day at a time, facing each task as it came. On this trip, we crossed three passes, climbed three hills, visited Everest Base Camp, and slept at an altitude as high as 5,160 meters, stepping on eight places above 5,000 meters in total. It wasn’t easy, especially when I caught a cold, couldn’t sleep well, and didn’t like the food. The harsh elements-the cold, lack of showers, no running water or flushing toilets-were tough, and I didn’t enjoy those parts of the experience, but you can’t pick and choose. Where else can you see such jagged mountains, each more beautiful and impressive than the last?

Thanks to my family for giving me the freedom and trust to pursue these adventures. They never questioned my desire and allow me to be myself. Because of their support, I can move forward and turn my dreams into reality.

Thank you, too, friends, for your company and encouragement on this journey. I didn’t expect anyone to be interested in reading my daily accounts, but to my surprise, several people told me they actually read them. This is the first time I’ve journaled and documented my experiences during a trip. I wrote in English so my kids can know where I’ve been and what I’ve seen and experienced-and it turns out to be faster and more freeing for me, too. It’s been a fun 15-day journey, and it’s been a joy sharing it with you!  

List of 5,000m+ Locations Visited During the Trek:

1. Nagarjun Hill near Dingboche (5,100m)  – Day 6

2. Kongma-La Pass (5,545m) – Day 8

        3.     Everest Base Camp (5,364m) – Day 9

        4.     Kala Patthar (5,650m) – Day 9

5. Cho-La Pass (5,420m)  – Day 11

6. Gokyo Ri (5,360m) – Day 12

7. Renjo-La Pass (5,345m) – Day 13

8. GorakShep (5,160m) – Night 9

(Note: This is a high-altitude settlement, not a pass or hill, but included here for reference.)

        

        Totaling 159.3km

Lessons and Tips

• Go slow, especially during the first few days of ascent. There’s no reward for rushing. Take breaks-even standing breaks help. Sip water regularly and have small amounts of energy bars or gels.

• Hydrate well after arriving at your lodging. Buy 1–2 liters of hot water or tea and keep drinking. Staying hydrated helps you recover faster and reduces the risk of altitude sickness. You can also pour hot water into a Nalgene bottle and tuck it into your sleeping bag as a heat source.

• Food becomes less satisfying at higher altitudes. Bring your own healthy snacks for longer days, such as energy bars, trail mix, chocolate, nuts, dried fruit, salt sticks, or electrolyte packets. Protein powder is also helpful-it can be added to hot water or tea.

• Essential medications to bring: Diamox, ibuprofen, Benadryl, anti-diarrheal medicine, cold/flu medicine, and cough drops.

• Lip balm with sun protection is a must. A buff is also very useful for avoiding dust and sunburn.

• Layer your clothing, and don’t overdress. You’ll warm up quickly once you start walking.

• For better views and more challenge, choose the EBC + Gokyo Lakes or Three Passes trek over the standard EBC route. Counter-clockwise is generally easier.

• Avoid showers past Namche (3,400m). Use dry shampoo, wet wipes, or sponge baths instead.

Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the journey!

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 15)

 Day 15: 2025/4/30 Namche (3440m) to Lukla (2840m)

Today is my last day of walking as we retrace our steps back to Lukla, where this trek began 15 days ago. We left shortly after 7 a.m., briskly descending the stairs of Namche. Determined not to lag behind, I followed Dawa closely. Amazingly, on my last day, my legs didn’t ache and my knees were pain-free!

Before leaving Namche, we stopped at a spot where each trekker picks up 1 kg of waste to carry from Namche to Lukla, participating in a waste removal program. If every trekker does this, together they could remove 80,000 kg of waste from the trail. I felt this was the least I could do and was glad to participate. 

There were more animals on the trail today than when we ascended - dzos, but mostly mule teams carrying heavy loads, along with porters transporting construction materials. 

We first reached the Hillary Bridge, this time walking in the opposite direction, then followed the white river down, crossing more suspension bridges. We paused for tea at the same restaurant where we had lunch on our way up. Soon, we arrived at the park entrance, where we took a group photo to commemorate our teamwork and the completion of the trek.

I recalled the day we started and how much was unknown to me then. Now, retracing my steps, the scenes-villages, stupas, mani stones, prayer wheels, and bridges-all look familiar.  After walking over 7 hours and covering about 20 km, we reached Lukla at 2:15 p.m. We dropped off our waste packages at the park offices, and received a coin made from water bottle caps as a memento.

Strolling the streets of Lukla again, I finally finished! I began with serious self-doubt but brought myself to the starting line and somehow managed to the finish line. It was not easy, but it’s not impossible! Maybe I am physically battered a little-with sunburn, chafed nose and mouth, a cold, and Khumbu cough, and probably some weight loss-but I feel renewed in spirit and confidence. Above all, I feel humbled and grateful for this opportunity and experience.

 

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 14)

 Day 14: 2025/4/29 Lungden (4,340m) to Namche (3,440m)

Every morning, I never know what to expect when I look out my window. Today, I opened the curtain to a clear mountain view and a cloudless sky-but it was freezing! My shoes were still damp from yesterday’s snow, so I was eager to get moving just to warm up.  

We set off shortly after 7 a.m. The mountains stood out against the blue sky, with a delicate, lace-like cloud draped over Kongde - fluffy and beautiful. Seeing such a stunning morning, I half-regretted not staying another night at Gokyo. Maybe we could have enjoyed the best views this morning at Renjo Pass. I called out to no one in particular, “I want to go back to Renjo Pass!” Jungbu and Dawa just laughed. If this is what the Himalayas chose to reveal to me, who am I to argue? Resigned, I hurried to catch up with them.

Today, Dawa led the way. Jungbu told me yesterday that he had caught a cold. I worried I might have passed it to him, but he said he got it while staying in the crowded dining room at Lobuche, because he couldn’t get a room that night. That’s how it goes for trekkers on the EBC route-people arrive in waves. Jungbu mentioned that just before my trek, over 600 people entered Namche in a single day, causing bottlenecks at Lobuche and Gorakshep. On our entry day, there were only about 200, so you never know what to expect. I heard that April and October are usually the busiest months, with stable weather and therefore more crowds.

Seven to ten in the morning is my favorite time to hike. My legs feel fresh, the air is crisp, the light is perfect, and the trails are less crowded. Today, I felt great-my knees seemed five years younger, and I felt like I could run. When I tried running across a suspension bridge, though, my left knee protested and I got winded halfway, which set off a coughing fit. After all, we were still at 4,300 meters! 

The morning weather was so beautiful that I exclaimed, “This is so beautiful!” Elsewhere, 6,000-meter peaks would be a highlight, but here, they’re so common they barely draw attention-though I think they’re just as stunning. We first headed toward Kongde, which I first glimpsed in Namche. I kept stopping to take photos. By noon, though, clouds rolled in and the mountains disappeared from view. 

As we descended, I told Jungbu, “I’m feeling stronger today-I could walk for a whole day!” He replied matter-of-factly, “Yes, we are going lower.” True enough. I can move quickly on flat or downhill sections, but uphill still tires me out.

Closer to Namche, we saw rhododendrons again-not just red, but also white, purple, and pink. Each cluster had many small flowers; I counted nine on one, twelve on another. The white ones were especially beautiful, almost like cherry blossoms to me. I also saw a variety of pine trees and smelled the fresh scent along the trail.

We reached Namche at 1:40 p.m., this time from the northwest. Although our journey isn’t over yet, we’ve completed a full circle through the three passes. Namche looked cheerful with its colorful roofs, just as I remembered from days ago, with the constant flow of trekkers-some just arriving, others, like me, finishing their trek. The air is thick with oxygen and I can shower again! Tomorrow, we’ll head down to Lukla, and from there, I’ll catch a small plane from Hillary Airport once again. Looking back, I’m surprised to find myself thinking that fourteen days have gone by quickly!

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 13)

 Day 13: 2025/4/28 Gokyo (4,800m) to Lungden (4,340m) via Renjo-La Pass (5,360m)

Cloudy, snowy

This morning, when I opened the curtain, everything outside was grey and white. I really didn’t know what to expect. I packed up and went to the dining room at 6:10 a.m.; both Jungbu and Dawa were already there. I asked about the plan. Jungbu said it would snow later and suggested we take the lower route, which meant skipping the third pass, Renjo-La. I was disappointed, but these days I don’t obsess over having a perfect trip. What you experience is what you experience.

While we were having breakfast-I’d ordered waffles with two eggs for the big day the night before-I saw two brave souls starting out on the trail. I pointed them out to Jungbu. Later, a group of people also set off, a colorful line against the snowy background. At that point, Jungbu said we would also take the route to the pass. I didn’t understand how he changed his mind so quickly, but I was excited because it meant I could complete all three passes! That’s the beauty of traveling solo: if I were with a group and most people wanted to take the lower route, I wouldn’t have much choice.

Photo credit to 陽光

I was told that from this pass you can see many famous peaks in one frame, including Everest, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. Alas, today there would be no external rewards of majestic, rugged mountains for me. That’s too bad, but at least today’s walk would be unique in its own way-we had to walk through snowy mountains. 

We started at 4,800 meters. I wore two merino wool base layers (one thin, one thicker), a down jacket, and a windbreaker. After half an hour, it started snowing again, but there was no wind, so it didn’t bother us. I was actually feeling hot, so I took off my windbreaker. After a while, I was hot again and swapped my down jacket for a fleece mid-layer. Today I felt like Dawa-every time I asked if he was cold, he’d often say, “Hot, hot!”  

Photo credit to 陽光

Initially, we walked along the shoulder of Gokyo Ri. After an hour and a half, we reached a steeper section. I know how to handle this now: one step at a time. Around 9 a.m., we reached 5,000 meters-just 300 more to go. Jungbu said it would take about two more hours. I adjusted my pace to a slow rhythm. Every time I get within 150–200 meters of the top, it’s like a switch flips in my head and I believe I can do it. The mountain won’t grow in front of me; every step I take is one less to the top.   

Along the way, we met a Chinese couple from mainland China. I asked where their guide was. They said they didn’t have one-they were doing this on their own, carrying pots, stoves, and all. The husband had a solar panel on his back and a big camera in front. He’s a member of the Chinese photography society. They walked at a brisk pace, so I thought they must be younger, but it turned out the husband retired at 60 four years ago, and the wife is also nearing 60. I felt a little bad, but not too much-they have hiked and traveled a lot since retiring.

We chatted at 5,300 meters. There was a group of slow Italians nearby. I said to the couple, “There’s no need to hurry; let’s enjoy the last 100 meters to the top.” At least that’s what I was feeling-who knows if I’ll ever return here? There have been many places I’d love to revisit, but so far, I always choose to go somewhere new. Besides, life is short and a lot can happen.

Soon we heard people yelling above-we had arrived at Renjo-La Pass! Once again, there was a free charging station, and once again, I didn’t bring my cable. I was doing well today. I didn’t feel tired and was having fun again. There was no view except snowy mountains and a white world, but everyone looked happy and proud. I guess I’ll have to check YouTube to see what I missed. We took photos and headed down 15 minutes later.

Photo credit to 陽光

Going down was much easier. It was clear again that while Jungbu matched my pace uphill, on the descent he set a faster pace than I preferred-maybe that’s the pace he thought I should be at. But today I felt stronger-my cold didn’t bother me much, and most of the time I could keep up, though sometimes I still lagged behind.  

The descent was 900–1,000 meters. Some people were coming up the way we went down, meaning they had to climb 1,000 meters and then descend 600. I’m so glad my tour company didn’t have me do this route clockwise-I’d be crying my way up every pass! The trail twisted and turned; we saw two or three lakes. I wonder if they look pretty on sunny days. The last part was a steep drop, from where we could see the small village where we’d stay the night. Facing the village, mostly covered by cloud, was a tall mountain that looked like a mural in the sky-too bad we couldn’t see the whole thing. The people in front of me saw a white wolf going up the slope. Later, he appeared again. He almost looked like a tiger, walking effortlessly up to the ridge. Jungbu said wolves here kill wild goats and baby yaks; a group can even kill a big yak. 

After nearly seven hours of walking, we arrived. This pass was the strongest I have felt among all three crossings. My spirit and stamina went from high to low and back to high again-I’m so happy this is how it ended. Yesterday, Gokyo Ri helped rebuild my confidence a bit; today, I had another good experience. In two more days, we’ll be back to civilization. Tomorrow, I can take a hot shower. Happiness can be so simple!

This is the view I missed that day: Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Makalu all in the same frame. Alas, I feel like I missed a million-dollar view!

Photo from Internet

The following photos were taken by a Korean friend I met at the previous tea house. She is incredibly brave-traveling and trekking in Nepal for three months, and taking on the Three Passes Trek all by herself.

Photo credit to Aerin from Korea

Photo credit to Aerin from Korea