Wandering Footprints : Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 13)

Day 13: 2025/4/28 Gokyo (4,800m) to Lungden (4,340m) via Renjo-La Pass (5,360m)

Cloudy, snowy

This morning, when I opened the curtain, everything outside was grey and white. I really didn’t know what to expect. I packed up and went to the dining room at 6:10 a.m.; both Jungbu and Dawa were already there. I asked about the plan. Jungbu said it would snow later and suggested we take the lower route, which meant skipping the third pass, Renjo-La. I was disappointed, but these days I don’t obsess over having a perfect trip. What you experience is what you experience.

While we were having breakfast-I’d ordered waffles with two eggs for the big day the night before-I saw two brave souls starting out on the trail. I pointed them out to Jungbu. Later, a group of people also set off, a colorful line against the snowy background. At that point, Jungbu said we would also take the route to the pass. I didn’t understand how he changed his mind so quickly, but I was excited because it meant I could complete all three passes! That’s the beauty of traveling solo: if I were with a group and most people wanted to take the lower route, I wouldn’t have much choice.

Photo credit to 陽光

I was told that from this pass you can see many famous peaks in one frame, including Everest, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. Alas, today there would be no external rewards of majestic, rugged mountains for me. That’s too bad, but at least today’s walk would be unique in its own way-we had to walk through snowy mountains.

We started at 4,800 meters. I wore two merino wool base layers (one thin, one thicker), a down jacket, and a windbreaker. After half an hour, it started snowing again, but there was no wind, so it didn’t bother us. I was actually feeling hot, so I took off my windbreaker. After a while, I was hot again and swapped my down jacket for a fleece mid-layer. Today I felt like Dawa-every time I asked if he was cold, he’d often say, “Hot, hot!”

Photo credit to 陽光

Initially, we walked along the shoulder of Gokyo Ri. After an hour and a half, we reached a steeper section. I know how to handle this now: one step at a time. Around 9 a.m., we reached 5,000 meters-just 300 more to go. Jungbu said it would take about two more hours. I adjusted my pace to a slow rhythm. Every time I get within 150–200 meters of the top, it’s like a switch flips in my head and I believe I can do it. The mountain won’t grow in front of me; every step I take is one less to the top.

Along the way, we met a Chinese couple from mainland China. I asked where their guide was. They said they didn’t have one-they were doing this on their own, carrying pots, stoves, and all. The husband had a solar panel on his back and a big camera in front. He’s a member of the Chinese photography society. They walked at a brisk pace, so I thought they must be younger, but it turned out the husband retired at 60 four years ago, and the wife is also nearing 60. I felt a little bad, but not too much-they have hiked and traveled a lot since retiring.

We chatted at 5,300 meters. There was a group of slow Italians nearby. I said to the couple, “There’s no need to hurry; let’s enjoy the last 100 meters to the top.” At least that’s what I was feeling-who knows if I’ll ever return here? There have been many places I’d love to revisit, but so far, I always choose to go somewhere new. Besides, life is short and a lot can happen.

Soon we heard people yelling above-we had arrived at Renjo-La Pass! Once again, there was a free charging station, and once again, I didn’t bring my cable. I was doing well today. I didn’t feel tired and was having fun again. There was no view except snowy mountains and a white world, but everyone looked happy and proud. I guess I’ll have to check YouTube to see what I missed. We took photos and headed down 15 minutes later.

Photo credit to 陽光

Going down was much easier. It was clear again that while Jungbu matched my pace uphill, on the descent he set a faster pace than I preferred-maybe that’s the pace he thought I should be at. But today I felt stronger-my cold didn’t bother me much, and most of the time I could keep up, though sometimes I still lagged behind.

The descent was 900–1,000 meters. Some people were coming up the way we went down, meaning they had to climb 1,000 meters and then descend 600. I’m so glad my tour company didn’t have me do this route clockwise-I’d be crying my way up every pass! The trail twisted and turned; we saw two or three lakes. I wonder if they look pretty on sunny days. The last part was a steep drop, from where we could see the small village where we’d stay the night. Facing the village, mostly covered by cloud, was a tall mountain that looked like a mural in the sky-too bad we couldn’t see the whole thing. The people in front of me saw a white wolf going up the slope. Later, he appeared again. He almost looked like a tiger, walking effortlessly up to the ridge. Jungbu said wolves here kill wild goats and baby yaks; a group can even kill a big yak.

After nearly seven hours of walking, we arrived. This pass was the strongest I have felt among all three crossings. My spirit and stamina went from high to low and back to high again-I’m so happy this is how it ended. Yesterday, Gokyo Ri helped rebuild my confidence a bit; today, I had another good experience. In two more days, we’ll be back to civilization. Tomorrow, I can take a hot shower. Happiness can be so simple!

This is the view I missed that day: Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Makalu all in the same frame. Alas, I feel like I missed a million-dollar view!

Photo from Internet

The following photos were taken by a Korean friend I met at the previous tea house. She is incredibly brave-traveling and trekking in Nepal for three months, and taking on the Three Passes Trek all by herself.