Day 7: 2025/4/22 Dingboche (4,350m) to Chukung (4,740m)
One of the joys of traveling independently in countries like Nepal is meeting fascinating people from all walks of life. Regardless of age, background, or profession, everyone here seems to share a sense of wonder, radiate positive energy, embrace the unknown, and willingly tolerate discomfort. They’re always interesting to talk to.
This morning, I continued my conversation with an English lady now living in Australia. She looks to be in her 60s. For years, she had dreamed of visiting Everest Base Camp, but family responsibilities-children, work, and aging parents-always made it seem impossible to leave. Her now-grown children, the eldest being 40, had heard so much about her dream that they secretly contacted a tour operator and paid for half the trip. She was moved to tears but still couldn’t act on it immediately. Eventually, she realized there would never be a perfect time, and if she didn’t go now, she might never get the chance. So here she is, finally enjoying the experience.
At breakfast, I sat next to a father and son from Washington, D.C. This is the father’s second attempt at climbing Mt. Everest. He has already summited the highest peak on six continents and skied at the South Pole. If he succeeds on Everest this time and later skis at the North Pole, he will earn the title of Explorer Grand Slam-awarded to those who have been to both poles and climbed the highest summit on each of the seven continents. Of course, he’s accomplished many other impressive feats. It’s heartwarming to see his son trekking with him to base camp. His son even works for him and lives next door to his parents-they must have a great relationship!
Today’s walk to Chukung (4,740m) was short and much quieter, as most trekkers heading to base camp take a different route directly to Lobuche. Those on this path are usually doing the Three Passes Trek, like me, or planning to climb Island Peak. We walked quietly, with the ever-present Ama Dablam to the right, standing nobly like a prince. To the left were the majestic, snow-clad Nuptse and Lhotse, and further ahead, Island Peak. Although I was slow, I wasn’t as slow as I thought-I was surprised that we arrived in Chukung ahead of schedule at 11:20 am., perhaps because we didn’t take many breaks.
At the lodge, we met more climbers: first, a group of eight preparing to summit Island Peak and then Mt. Everest. They looked fit and were in good spirits. Later, at dinner, we met a family of three with a 14-year-old boy who had just summited Island Peak. Sometimes climbers from base camp also retreat to this spot to rest and recover, so it’s no surprise to hear radio calls to base camp.
After lunch, I walked along the trail to Island Peak Base Camp. There were very few people, and I enjoyed the solitude, taking in the breathtaking views. Surrounded by towering mountains, I felt incredibly lucky to be here. A group of climbers passed by-perfect subjects for my photos. Far behind us, clouds began to form and rise, the wind picked up, and I felt a chill. After lingering for a moment, I headed back to the lodge.
Back at the lodge, people lounged in the courtyard, enjoying the sun. It felt like the calm before a big day. Tomorrow, I will cross the Kongma-La Pass to Lobuche-the first and hardest of the three high passes, at 5,535m. How do I feel about it? It depends. If you catch me struggling uphill, panting with parched lips, I’d say, “Dreadful! What have I gotten myself into?” But sitting here at the lodge, sipping tea, I’d say, “Excited!” Both are true-two sides of the same coin. Either way, I’m grateful to be here and eager to see what lies ahead.
No comments:
Post a Comment