Day 9: 2025/4/24 Lobuche (4940m) to Everest Base Camp (5360m), Kala Patthar(5650m), and Gorak Shep (5160m)
The problem for me wasn’t altitude sickness, but a cold. Eventually, I couldn’t escape it-after a day of a runny nose, now both nostrils are chaffed and completely blocked, making breathing even harder. To make matters worse, I lost my sleeping pills, possibly at the last lodge, and I couldn’t sleep last night (insomnia can also be a reaction to altitude). I heard the dogs barked all night-apparently their lungs aren’t affected by the thin air. Still, it wasn’t all bad; I woke up feeling somewhat rested, with no leg pain, headache, or queasy stomach.
The night was freezing-the little water left in my reservoir turned to ice. In the restaurant, everyone came in shivering, rubbing their hands, and looking cold. We left at 6:52 a.m. and reached Gorak Shep at 9:25 a.m., where we’d spend the night. Jungbu said we’d have lunch here. Lunch at 9:30 a.m.? So early? He explained it takes three hours to reach base camp and return, so it’s best to eat to gain energy. I ordered tomato noodle soup, expecting a few tomatoes, but it was just tomato-flavored instant noodles-no egg, and it cost 1,200 RS. Empty, useless calories!
After our early lunch, we continued along the Khumbu Valley. What looks like a rock pile to me is actually the Khumbu Glacier, and we were walking on it. We could see the old trail below, used about ten years ago, but it may no longer be safe. The trail was busy, alternating between gentle and steep slopes, with people and animals traveling both ways. Helicopters flew in and out constantly, mostly delivering supplies or transporting people.
Fighting a cold and lack of sleep, I felt sluggish. My steps were uneven, and the sun was shining in my eyes, so I lowered my head-at times I was almost sleepwalking. I admired the big strides of young trekkers, but there were also older or less fit people shuffling along even slower than me. Today, I didn’t get many breaks and often had to stop to blow my nose.
After two hours of walking, we arrived at base camp. It was inspiring to see where ambitious and brave climbers prepare for their ascent. Each expedition had its own area, with large dining tents, medical tents, and more. Far away, climbers could be seen practicing on the Khumbu icefall with ropes.
However, base camp can feel a little anticlimactic for trekkers. You only see a sliver of Mt. Everest above Nuptse. People lined up to take photos at the big rock marked 5,364m, but my watch only registered 5,254m-did my watch malfunction, or has the Khumbu Glacier sunk by 110 meters?
We returned to the lodge at 1:30 p.m., but the day wasn’t over. Most EBC trekkers also visit Kala Patthar (5,650m) for a better view of Everest, either at sunset or sunrise. Jungbu suggested going for sunset today instead of leaving early for sunrise. I asked how long it would take; he said three hours. Since the weather was good and I worried I might feel worse tomorrow, I decided to go that afternoon despite not feeling strong.
The climb to Kala Patthar is a 500-meter elevation gain in just one mile-a steep, nonstop incline. There are benches along the way facing the mountains. At 5,400m, with only 150 meters left, I could see the top and knew I could make it, but it was still very hard-especially the last 60 meters, when I had to stop frequently to catch my breath. Finally, we reached the top, with views of several Himalayan giants, including Everest poking its head behind Lhotse and Nuptse. My watch read 5,650m-a new personal record!
It was windy and chilly at the top. Some people hike up here to see Everest at sunset, which was still an hour away, but I didn’t feel I had the energy to wait in the cold, and we weren’t dressed for it, so we headed back and arrived at Gorak Shep by 5:45 p.m. I was completely spent!
Tonight, we’re sleeping at 5,160 meters, and there is a clinic not far from here. My friend was rescued from here just a month ago.
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