Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 14)

 Day 14: 2025/4/29 Lungden (4,340m) to Namche (3,440m)

Every morning, I never know what to expect when I look out my window. Today, I opened the curtain to a clear mountain view and a cloudless sky-but it was freezing! My shoes were still damp from yesterday’s snow, so I was eager to get moving just to warm up.  

We set off shortly after 7 a.m. The mountains stood out against the blue sky, with a delicate, lace-like cloud draped over Kongde - fluffy and beautiful. Seeing such a stunning morning, I half-regretted not staying another night at Gokyo. Maybe we could have enjoyed the best views this morning at Renjo Pass. I called out to no one in particular, “I want to go back to Renjo Pass!” Jungbu and Dawa just laughed. If this is what the Himalayas chose to reveal to me, who am I to argue? Resigned, I hurried to catch up with them.

Today, Dawa led the way. Jungbu told me yesterday that he had caught a cold. I worried I might have passed it to him, but he said he got it while staying in the crowded dining room at Lobuche, because he couldn’t get a room that night. That’s how it goes for trekkers on the EBC route-people arrive in waves. Jungbu mentioned that just before my trek, over 600 people entered Namche in a single day, causing bottlenecks at Lobuche and Gorakshep. On our entry day, there were only about 200, so you never know what to expect. I heard that April and October are usually the busiest months, with stable weather and therefore more crowds.

Seven to ten in the morning is my favorite time to hike. My legs feel fresh, the air is crisp, the light is perfect, and the trails are less crowded. Today, I felt great-my knees seemed five years younger, and I felt like I could run. When I tried running across a suspension bridge, though, my left knee protested and I got winded halfway, which set off a coughing fit. After all, we were still at 4,300 meters! 

The morning weather was so beautiful that I exclaimed, “This is so beautiful!” Elsewhere, 6,000-meter peaks would be a highlight, but here, they’re so common they barely draw attention-though I think they’re just as stunning. We first headed toward Kongde, which I first glimpsed in Namche. I kept stopping to take photos. By noon, though, clouds rolled in and the mountains disappeared from view. 

As we descended, I told Jungbu, “I’m feeling stronger today-I could walk for a whole day!” He replied matter-of-factly, “Yes, we are going lower.” True enough. I can move quickly on flat or downhill sections, but uphill still tires me out.

Closer to Namche, we saw rhododendrons again-not just red, but also white, purple, and pink. Each cluster had many small flowers; I counted nine on one, twelve on another. The white ones were especially beautiful, almost like cherry blossoms to me. I also saw a variety of pine trees and smelled the fresh scent along the trail.

We reached Namche at 1:40 p.m., this time from the northwest. Although our journey isn’t over yet, we’ve completed a full circle through the three passes. Namche looked cheerful with its colorful roofs, just as I remembered from days ago, with the constant flow of trekkers-some just arriving, others, like me, finishing their trek. The air is thick with oxygen and I can shower again! Tomorrow, we’ll head down to Lukla, and from there, I’ll catch a small plane from Hillary Airport once again. Looking back, I’m surprised to find myself thinking that fourteen days have gone by quickly!