Book Review: The Vast Unknown: America’s First Ascent of Everest by Broughton Coburn

The Vast Unknown: 

America’s First Ascent of Everest by Broughton Coburn

In 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay successfully reached the summit of Everest for the first time via the South Col route. In 1956, Swiss climbers followed with their own successful ascent. In 1960, China announced a successful summit from the north route. Unlike today, when hundreds of climbers reach Everest’s summit every year, back then Nepal had just opened its borders to foreign climbing expeditions and only allowed one country’s team to attempt the climb each year. By 1963, only seven people had ever stood on Everest’s summit. It was still an uncharted and untouched place for Americans. At that time, with the young Kennedy as president, the United States was embroiled in the Cold War, the Vietnam conflict, and the space race. The world’s highest peak in Nepal had also become a battleground for East-West dominance.

This book provides a detailed account of the heroic exploits of an expedition team composed of talented, independent-minded young intellectuals and climbers. It vividly portrays these legendary figures—their love of freedom, independent thinking, unique skillsets, and personalities, as well as their deep camaraderie. Three of them, along with a Sherpa (the nephew of Tenzing Norgay), successfully summited via the South Col route, while two others, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, reached the summit by the nearly impossible West Ridge. To this day, over ten thousand climbers have stood atop Everest from the South Col or the North Ridge, but fewer than twenty have succeeded via the West Ridge.

Each member of the expedition was profoundly affected by this unique challenge an

their heroic efforts. Many went on to become—or continue to be—successful professors, doctors, scientists, businessmen, mountain guides, and leaders in various fields. They have lived, and some are still living, inspiring and fulfilling lives.

Coburn also contrasts the spirit, style, and conditions of mountaineering in that era with those of today. This not only helps us better understand this remarkable event and its historical context, but also offers deeper insight into the evolution of mountaineering.

A true adrenaline rush for any true—or armchair—mountaineer alike!

浩瀚的未知- 美國首次登頂珠穆朗瑪峰

1953年，埃德蒙·希拉里爵士（Sir Edmund Hillary）和夏爾巴嚮導丹增·諾蓋（Sherpa Tenzing Norgay）首次由南坳（South Col）路線成功登頂珠峰。1956年，瑞士登山家也隨後成功登頂。1960年，中國宣布從北坡登頂成功。和現在每年幾百人成功攀登珠峰的盛況不同，那時尼泊爾剛剛對外國登山隊開放，而且每年只允許一個國家的登山隊去攀登，到1963年僅有7人曾經到過珠峰頂峰，對美國人來說還是未到之地。當時年輕的小肯尼迪當選總統，美國處於冷戰、越戰，以及太空競賽的壓力下，位於尼泊爾的世界最高峰，也成了東西方爭奪主導地位的戰場。

這本書詳細記錄了一群有才華和獨立思想的年輕知識分子登山家組成的探險隊的英雄壯舉。他們不僅四人成功沿襲南坳路線登頂，另外還有兩人在幾乎不可能的情況下，由西脊（West Ridge）成功登頂。迄今為止，已有上萬人由南坳和北坡站上世界之巔，但只有十幾個人由西脊成功登頂。

書中描寫的人物可謂是美國登山界的前輩和傳奇人物，他們熱愛自由，各有所長，既有獨立思想又具團隊精神。該書深刻描繪了這批年輕登山家獨特的人格魅力和彼此之間的深厚情誼，也對那個時代和當今登山界在主旨精神、風格和條件上的極大不同做了對比。不僅幫助我們深入了解這個精彩的事件和當時的世界局勢，也更了解登山運動的發展歷史。