Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 9)

Day 9: 2025/4/24 Lobuche (4940m) to Everest Base Camp (5360m), Kala Patthar(5650m), and Gorak Shep (5160m)

The problem for me wasn’t altitude sickness, but a cold. Eventually, I couldn’t escape it-after a day of a runny nose, now both nostrils are chaffed and completely blocked, making breathing even harder. To make matters worse, I lost my sleeping pills, possibly at the last lodge, and I couldn’t sleep last night (insomnia can also be a reaction to altitude). I heard the dogs barked all night-apparently their lungs aren’t affected by the thin air. Still, it wasn’t all bad; I woke up feeling somewhat rested, with no leg pain, headache, or queasy stomach.

The night was freezing-the little water left in my reservoir turned to ice. In the restaurant, everyone came in shivering, rubbing their hands, and looking cold. We left at 6:52 a.m. and reached Gorak Shep at 9:25 a.m., where we’d spend the night. Jungbu said we’d have lunch here. Lunch at 9:30 a.m.? So early? He explained it takes three hours to reach base camp and return, so it’s best to eat to gain energy. I ordered tomato noodle soup, expecting a few tomatoes, but it was just tomato-flavored instant noodles-no egg, and it cost 1,200 RS. Empty, useless calories!

After our early lunch, we continued along the Khumbu Valley. What looks like a rock pile to me is actually the Khumbu Glacier, and we were walking on it. We could see the old trail below, used about ten years ago, but it may no longer be safe. The trail was busy, alternating between gentle and steep slopes, with people and animals traveling both ways. Helicopters flew in and out constantly, mostly delivering supplies or transporting people. 

Fighting a cold and lack of sleep, I felt sluggish. My steps were uneven, and the sun was shining in my eyes, so I lowered my head-at times I was almost sleepwalking. I admired the big strides of young trekkers, but there were also older or less fit people shuffling along even slower than me. Today, I didn’t get many breaks and often had to stop to blow my nose.   

After two hours of walking, we arrived at base camp. It was inspiring to see where ambitious and brave climbers prepare for their ascent. Each expedition had its own area, with large dining tents, medical tents, and more. Far away, climbers could be seen practicing on the Khumbu icefall with ropes. 

However, base camp can feel a little anticlimactic for trekkers. You only see a sliver of Mt. Everest above Nuptse. People lined up to take photos at the big rock marked 5,364m, but my watch only registered 5,254m-did my watch malfunction, or has the Khumbu Glacier sunk by 110 meters? 

We returned to the lodge at 1:30 p.m., but the day wasn’t over. Most EBC trekkers also visit Kala Patthar (5,650m) for a better view of Everest, either at sunset or sunrise. Jungbu suggested going for sunset today instead of leaving early for sunrise. I asked how long it would take; he said three hours. Since the weather was good and I worried I might feel worse tomorrow, I decided to go that afternoon despite not feeling strong.  

The climb to Kala Patthar is a 500-meter elevation gain in just one mile-a steep, nonstop incline. There are benches along the way facing the mountains. At 5,400m, with only 150 meters left, I could see the top and knew I could make it, but it was still very hard-especially the last 60 meters, when I had to stop frequently to catch my breath. Finally, we reached the top, with views of several Himalayan giants, including Everest poking its head behind Lhotse and Nuptse. My watch read 5,650m-a new personal record! 

It was windy and chilly at the top. Some people hike up here to see Everest at sunset, which was still an hour away, but I didn’t feel I had the energy to wait in the cold, and we weren’t dressed for it, so we headed back and arrived at Gorak Shep by 5:45 p.m. I was completely spent!

Tonight, we’re sleeping at 5,160 meters, and there is a clinic not far from here. My friend was rescued from here just a month ago.

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 8)

Day 8: 2025/4/23 Chukung (4,740m) to Lobuche (4,940m)

Last night, the sky was filled with stars. I had a fitful sleep, and my watch recorded a body battery of 15. That’s not unusual-it’s hard to recharge at high altitude.  

After a meager breakfast of two scrambled eggs, we set out at 6:35 a.m., knowing a tough day lay ahead. We started on a packed dirt road up the hill. I enjoyed the gentle slope; it wasn’t too hard or dusty, and my knees didn’t complain much. Soon, we reached 4,900 meters, and the path turned rocky. Jungbu gave me a break every 100 meters of elevation gain. Each time we stopped, I looked back and took photos of Ama Dablam across the valley-it seemed to grow larger with every step. 

When we reached 5,000 meters, we still had over 500 meters of vertical ascent left. It was daunting to think about, but focusing on the next plateau, the big rock ahead, or even just the next 100 steps made it manageable. If you’re unfamiliar with this mindset, I recommend reading or watching “Touching the Void”-an ultimate survival story beyond my imagination.

At 5,100 meters, everything above was uncharted territory for me. I tried to keep a slow pace; whenever I forgot, I felt the strength drain from my legs. I had to slow down to recover and remind myself to not only breathe in, but also breathe out.

The trail was quiet. We encountered a few groups, including a large group of young people from Israel. Although they moved faster, they took frequent breaks. We weren’t competing, but we passed each other several times-just like in the fable of the hare and the tortoise. You can probably guess who was the tortoise.

Along the way, we saw a dozen or so mountain goats. Unlike the lighter-colored goats in Colorado, these were brown and blended into their surroundings. We also passed some icefalls-frozen waterfalls left from last year, which might melt completely by next month. The valley looks brown now, but in summer it turns green. Jungbu told me that animals graze all the way from here to Namche.

Before reaching the pass, we stopped for lunch at 5,400 meters. I ate an egg sandwich and  French fries packed from the last lodge. On the trail, it’s important to take care of your body: I sipped water at every stop, ate energy bars when we sat down, and drank from my Nalgene with electrolytes. However, the wind kept our noses running all day like a trickling faucet. 

The final stretch was a winding, rocky path, reminding me of the 99 switchbacks on Mt. Whitney-except this was 1,100 meters higher. We took more standing breaks. The view was worth every step: a clear blue lake below and the Himalayas as a backdrop-a hard-earned sight. 

We finally reached the top, around 5,550 meters. Looking back, I saw Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam; ahead lay another range of mountains. We spent nearly half an hour taking in the million-dollar views. 

The descent was steep and rocky, requiring some scrambling, followed by a slippery, dusty section where I slipped a few times. After descending, we faced another 200-meter climb. Climbing uphill at high altitude was tough, but we finally made it to the top, where we saw the Khumbu Glacier and a couple of jade-green lakes. At first, the glacier looked like a pile of rocks, but the ice was visible in places. The glacier moves every year, so the trail changes annually. The lakes were so beautiful that I have no words to describe them. 

We finally arrived in Lobuche at 4940m. The higher we go, the more basic the lodging, but the views make it worthwhile. I’m happy to have finished the hardest pass-my legs are sore, but otherwise, I feel fine. Of course, it’s nothing compared to what the climbers face-their hills are my mountains, their base camp is my destination. In the meantime, I can’t be too optimistic; tomorrow we head to base camp and stay at Gorakshep, which is over 5,000 meters high. Still, today was a great day!

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 7)

 Day 7: 2025/4/22 Dingboche (4,350m) to Chukung (4,740m)

One of the joys of traveling independently in countries like Nepal is meeting fascinating people from all walks of life. Regardless of age, background, or profession, everyone here seems to share a sense of wonder, radiate positive energy, embrace the unknown, and willingly tolerate discomfort. They’re always interesting to talk to.

This morning, I continued my conversation with an English lady now living in Australia. She looks to be in her 60s. For years, she had dreamed of visiting Everest Base Camp, but family responsibilities-children, work, and aging parents-always made it seem impossible to leave. Her now-grown children, the eldest being 40, had heard so much about her dream that they secretly contacted a tour operator and paid for half the trip. She was moved to tears but still couldn’t act on it immediately. Eventually, she realized there would never be a perfect time, and if she didn’t go now, she might never get the chance. So here she is, finally enjoying the experience.

At breakfast, I sat next to a father and son from Washington, D.C. This is the father’s second attempt at climbing Mt. Everest. He has already summited the highest peak on six continents and skied at the South Pole. If he succeeds on Everest this time and later skis at the North Pole, he will earn the title of Explorer Grand Slam-awarded to those who have been to both poles and climbed the highest summit on each of the seven continents. Of course, he’s accomplished many other impressive feats. It’s heartwarming to see his son trekking with him to base camp. His son even works for him and lives next door to his parents-they must have a great relationship!

Today’s walk to Chukung (4,740m) was short and much quieter, as most trekkers heading to base camp take a different route directly to Lobuche. Those on this path are usually doing the Three Passes Trek, like me, or planning to climb Island Peak. We walked quietly, with the ever-present Ama Dablam to the right, standing nobly like a prince. To the left were the majestic, snow-clad Nuptse and Lhotse, and further ahead, Island Peak. Although I was slow, I wasn’t as slow as I thought-I was surprised that we arrived in Chukung ahead of schedule at 11:20 am., perhaps because we didn’t take many breaks.

At the lodge, we met more climbers: first, a group of eight preparing to summit Island Peak and then Mt. Everest. They looked fit and were in good spirits. Later, at dinner, we met a family of three with a 14-year-old boy who had just summited Island Peak. Sometimes climbers from base camp also retreat to this spot to rest and recover, so it’s no surprise to hear radio calls to base camp. 

After lunch, I walked along the trail to Island Peak Base Camp. There were very few people,  and I enjoyed the solitude, taking in the breathtaking views. Surrounded by towering mountains, I felt incredibly lucky to be here. A group of climbers passed by-perfect subjects for my photos. Far behind us, clouds began to form and rise, the wind picked up, and I felt a chill. After lingering for a moment, I headed back to the lodge.

Back at the lodge, people lounged in the courtyard, enjoying the sun. It felt like the calm before a big day. Tomorrow, I will cross the Kongma-La Pass to Lobuche-the first and hardest of the three high passes, at 5,535m. How do I feel about it? It depends. If you catch me struggling uphill, panting with parched lips, I’d say, “Dreadful! What have I gotten myself into?” But sitting here at the lodge, sipping tea, I’d say, “Excited!” Both are true-two sides of the same coin. Either way, I’m grateful to be here and eager to see what lies ahead.

  

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 6)

 Day 6: 2025/4/21 – Acclimatization Day in Dingboche (4,350m)

The tea house we stayed at in Dingboche was quite large, with rooms on both sides of the hallway and slightly warmer than our previous stop. Each room had two single beds with memory foam mattresses. However, the walls were paper-thin-you could sometimes hear snoring or even the sound of sleeping bags being zipped in the next room.

From this point onward, most toilets are squat-style. Washing is done with cold water, though you can pay for hot water to drink or use for a sponge bath. All the guests seemed to accept these conditions rather well. Of course, it could be worse; twelve or thirteen years ago, there were far fewer tea houses, and trekkers and climbers had to camp along the way. This tea house even has washing machines, which makes sense since most people spend two nights here to acclimatize-it’s a good opportunity to do laundry. 

Yesterday, at both lunch and dinner, I noticed the same young Japanese man sitting at the next table. He was busy all afternoon, but I got to chat with him while waiting for dinner. When he first walked in, I initially thought he was a young woman because his hat and sunglasses covered a clean, elegant face. I asked which trek he was doing, and his guide replied, “Climbing Everest.” That was unexpected! I asked which mountains he had climbed before; he said he had only been climbing for a year and a half, and his last climb was Manaslu (8,156m). I was truly amazed. He was part of a Japanese climbing team; the rest were already at base camp. He couldn’t leave earlier due to work, so he rushed here while having a fever yesterday-no wonder his lips were blue when he first arrived. I also learned he is 33 years old and owns several beauty shops and a vegan bakery in Tokyo-an unconventional climber! I can’t help feeling that there are so many interesting people living fascinating lives in the world; we just don’t usually get to meet them.

Meanwhile, Mitch Hutchcraft just climbed Lobuche (6,100m) and will attempt Everest next, which seems like a big step up. Usually, people aiming for Everest start with 6,000m peaks, then 7,000m, before attempting Everest or other 8,000m peaks. But some have indeed summited Everest without following the traditional progression. My guide, Jungbu, has climbed Lobuche too, and the business owner, Karma-who is also his brother-in-law-climbed Everest twice when he was young and working as a porter. I would never have guessed, as he is a modest and unassuming guy.

My condition seems to have improved a little-it definitely hasn’t gotten worse. My nose is a bit stuffy and my throat is still sore, but I don’t think it’s getting any worse. Yesterday afternoon, I drank hot water and tea all day, trying to flush the sickness out of my system. I also took DayQuil. I heard people coughing all around the tea house; I guess I’m not the only one feeling under the weather.

For lunch, the guides usually eat with their clients, but not at dinner. They mainly take care of their clients’ needs first, then eat together, sometimes in the kitchen. Their meals are simpler and more home-style. Interestingly, they drink salt tea (also called Sherpa tea) in the morning and after we reach our resting place. Salt tea is made with salt, milk, butter, a little flour, and tea. That makes sense, as it replenishes salt lost through sweat and provides fat and calories. Ever since I found out tea houses serve salt tea-whether it’s on the menu or not-I’ve tried to copy their habits. I also drink lemon ginger tea, milk tea, and coffee-all of which are widely available.

Today we did an acclimatization hike to Nagarjun Hill, whose peak is about 5,100m. Jungbu said we didn’t have to go all the way to the top, just as far as I felt comfortable. The beginning wasn’t too hard, but then the trail became long, dusty, and steep. As usual, Jungbu set a slow pace. At first, I even asked if we were going too slowly, but he assured me it was fine. Indeed, you don’t want to overexert yourself at the start, or you’ll lose energy quickly and every step will become tough. I used to dread going uphill, but now I seem to have gotten the hang of it. It’s kind of like a marathon: the distance is fixed, some run at sub-6-minute miles, some at 12-minute miles, and some in between. You just have to run your own race; hiking is the same. Everyone should find their own sustainable pace, then you can go a long way.

The views got better and better as we climbed. After two hours and thirty minutes, we reached a flagpole at about 4,936m. Jungbu asked if I wanted to continue. I was feeling good, could see people on the summit, and the weather was favorable, so I said, “Let’s go!” About three hours after we started, we reached the top at around 5,100m. From there, we had panoramic views of some of the world’s highest peaks, including Makalu, Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Lobuche, and others whose names I can’t recall.

My guide, Jungbu Sherpa, and I at the top of my first 5,000m+ peak in Nepal.

I was very happy with how it went. This is my first time reaching over 5,000m in Nepal, and it felt better than before. I’m not saying it’s easy-it never is to get to 5,000m-I still breathed hard, but my legs weren’t heavy, and I had a good rhythm. Of course, this time I was on Diamox; that may have made a difference. Nonetheless, I was happy. We took some photos and started heading down. The descent took about half the time. 

Back at the tea house, I had a bowl of Korean noodles (instant noodles), and of course, salt tea too. Taking advantage of the bright sunshine, I did some laundry.

Tomorrow, we will head to Chukung (4,740m). From there, we’ll cross our first pass-Kongma-La Pass (5,535m), the highest of the three passes on this trek. Now things are getting serious. My “final exams week” will officially begin the day after tomorrow. And honestly, I don’t know if I’m ready or not!