Book Review: The Vast Unknown: America’s First Ascent of Everest by Broughton Coburn

The Vast Unknown: 

America’s First Ascent of Everest by Broughton Coburn

In 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay successfully reached the summit of Everest for the first time via the South Col route. In 1956, Swiss climbers followed with their own successful ascent. In 1960, China announced a successful summit from the north route. Unlike today, when hundreds of climbers reach Everest’s summit every year, back then Nepal had just opened its borders to foreign climbing expeditions and only allowed one country’s team to attempt the climb each year. By 1963, only seven people had ever stood on Everest’s summit. It was still an uncharted and untouched place for Americans. At that time, with the young Kennedy as president, the United States was embroiled in the Cold War, the Vietnam conflict, and the space race. The world’s highest peak in Nepal had also become a battleground for East-West dominance.

This book provides a detailed account of the heroic exploits of an expedition team composed of talented, independent-minded young intellectuals and climbers. It vividly portrays these legendary figures—their love of freedom, independent thinking, unique skillsets, and personalities, as well as their deep camaraderie. Three of them, along with a Sherpa (the nephew of Tenzing Norgay), successfully summited via the South Col route, while two others, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, reached the summit by the nearly impossible West Ridge. To this day, over ten thousand climbers have stood atop Everest from the South Col or the North Ridge, but fewer than twenty have succeeded via the West Ridge.

Each member of the expedition was profoundly affected by this unique challenge an

their heroic efforts. Many went on to become—or continue to be—successful professors, doctors, scientists, businessmen, mountain guides, and leaders in various fields. They have lived, and some are still living, inspiring and fulfilling lives.

Coburn also contrasts the spirit, style, and conditions of mountaineering in that era with those of today. This not only helps us better understand this remarkable event and its historical context, but also offers deeper insight into the evolution of mountaineering.

A true adrenaline rush for any true—or armchair—mountaineer alike!

浩瀚的未知- 美國首次登頂珠穆朗瑪峰

1953年，埃德蒙·希拉里爵士（Sir Edmund Hillary）和夏爾巴嚮導丹增·諾蓋（Sherpa Tenzing Norgay）首次由南坳（South Col）路線成功登頂珠峰。1956年，瑞士登山家也隨後成功登頂。1960年，中國宣布從北坡登頂成功。和現在每年幾百人成功攀登珠峰的盛況不同，那時尼泊爾剛剛對外國登山隊開放，而且每年只允許一個國家的登山隊去攀登，到1963年僅有7人曾經到過珠峰頂峰，對美國人來說還是未到之地。當時年輕的小肯尼迪當選總統，美國處於冷戰、越戰，以及太空競賽的壓力下，位於尼泊爾的世界最高峰，也成了東西方爭奪主導地位的戰場。

這本書詳細記錄了一群有才華和獨立思想的年輕知識分子登山家組成的探險隊的英雄壯舉。他們不僅四人成功沿襲南坳路線登頂，另外還有兩人在幾乎不可能的情況下，由西脊（West Ridge）成功登頂。迄今為止，已有上萬人由南坳和北坡站上世界之巔，但只有十幾個人由西脊成功登頂。

書中描寫的人物可謂是美國登山界的前輩和傳奇人物，他們熱愛自由，各有所長，既有獨立思想又具團隊精神。該書深刻描繪了這批年輕登山家獨特的人格魅力和彼此之間的深厚情誼，也對那個時代和當今登山界在主旨精神、風格和條件上的極大不同做了對比。不僅幫助我們深入了解這個精彩的事件和當時的世界局勢，也更了解登山運動的發展歷史。

Book Review: The Boys in the Boat by Daniel James Brown

 

"The Boys in the Boat" is a beautifully written book that goes far beyond the sport of rowing. It delves into the lives of the people involved, the strength of their relationships, and the unique era in which their story takes place. The author masterfully weaves together the personal histories of the rowers, their families, and the coaches, painting a vivid picture of their struggles, hopes, and triumphs during the Great Depression.

What stands out most is how the author brings to life a cast of fascinating individuals and remarkable men, allowing us to truly look into their souls. Through detailed storytelling, we come to understand not only their physical endurance and teamwork, but also their vulnerabilities, dreams, and unwavering determination. The boat maker, coaches, and crew members are portrayed almost like poets and philosophers, each contributing their own wisdom and artistry to the sport.

Rowing, in their hands, becomes something much more than a competition—it’s a test of character, unity, and spirit. The book captures the magic of their journey, making the reader feel the rhythm of the oars, the tension of the races, and the profound sense of accomplishment that comes from working together toward a common goal.

 "The Boys in the Boat" is an inspiring and moving tribute to resilience, friendship, and the pursuit of excellence. It’s a story that lingers long after the final page.

《The Boys in the Boat》（《船上的男孩们》）是一本以赛艇运动为主题的纪实作品。书中真实地描写了队员们的生活、他们之间的友情，以及所处的大萧条时代背景。作者把赛艇队员、他们的家庭和教练的故事交织在一起，展现了他们在经济困境下的努力、挣扎和令人振奮的胜利。


这本书最打动人的是它展现了他们面对生活压力、经济拮据和身体极限时的真实反应。我们看到的不仅是训练和比赛的艰苦，还有他们在困境中互相支持、共同成长的过程。造船师、教练和队员们用自己的方式诠释了坚韌，毅力和团队精神。


在这些普通人的努力下，赛艇不仅仅是一项体育竞技，更成为他们证明自我、改变命运的途径。閱讀中，读者可以深切感受到比赛中的紧张、失败的挫折，以及团队协作带来的成就感。


《船上的男孩们》是一部关于奋斗、友情和成长的纪实作品。它让人看到身处逆境中的普通人靠著团结和努力创造出不平凡的故事。

Book Review: A Walk in the Park by Kevin Fedark

A Walk in the Park

The True Story of a Spectacular Misadventure in the Grand Canyon

“A Walk in the Park” recounts the incredible adventure of author Kevin Fedarko and his photographer friend Pete McBride as they traverse the Grand Canyon lengthwise. While most visitors experience the canyon from the rim or attempt the classic Rim-to-Rim hike, these two set out on a 750-mile journey stretching from Lee’s Ferry all the way to the Grand Wash Cliffs. With no formal trails to follow, their trek was far more dangerous—requiring them to navigate side canyons, scramble over cliffs, and cross unmarked terrain between the rim and the Colorado River. Their lack of experience and preparation only added to the mishaps and risks along the way.

The book details their many misadventures and challenges, offering vivid glimpses into the primitive world below the rim—the unique geography, diverse flora and fauna, and the rich history and ongoing struggles of Native American tribes connected to the land. While the tone can be a bit dry at times, it remains a thorough and eye-opening exploration of the Grand Canyon, sure to offer new perspectives for anyone planning a future visit.

Fedarko brings this gripping journey to life on the page, while McBride captures it on film in his documentary “Into the Grand Canyon.”

《A Walk in the Park》（《公园漫步》）讲述了作者 Kevin Fedarko 和他的摄影师朋友 Pete McBride 横穿大峡谷的惊人冒险。大多数游客只是在峡谷边缘观景，或者进行一次“崖到崖”的徒步，但他们俩选择了从李氏渡口（Lee’s Ferry）到Grand Wash Cliffs，全程750英里的纵贯大峡谷之旅。由于没有正式的步道，他们的旅途危险得多，需要穿越支峡、攀爬悬崖、在边缘和科罗拉多河之间的无人地带摸索前行。他们的经验不足和准备不充分也让旅途增添了更多意外和危险。

书中详细描述了他们一路上的种种失误与挑战，带领读者深入峡谷边缘之下那片原始世界——独特的地理环境、多样的动植物，以及与这片土地息息相关的美洲原住民部落的历史和持续的挣扎。虽然有时语气略显平淡，但这本书依然是一部全面而深刻的大峡谷探索之作，能为未来的访客带来全新的视角。

Fedarko用文字记录下这段扣人心弦的旅程，而McBride则用纪录片《Into the Grand Canyon》将其呈現於影像。

Book Review: Hidden Mountains by Michael Wejchert

Hidden Mountains 

 Survival and Reckoning after a Climb Gone Wrong

This book was recommended to me by a hiking friend. As is often the case, it took me about 30 to 50 pages to really get into it. The story begins by exploring how the climbing community has evolved—from the days of outdoor rock and ice climbing to the rise of indoor climbing gyms as a sport. It looks at how the attitudes of small, tight-knit groups of climbers have shifted—from seeking pure adventure to embracing climbing as a sport within a broader community. The book also introduces the main characters—four young men and women—and traces their development as climbers and the relationships they forge along the way. The setting of the twisting events is in Alaska's Hidden Mountains, one of the last wild ranges in North America.

Part II focuses on the dramatic rescue operation after the main character, Emmett, fell 30 feet and suffered head and spinal injuries. The narrative details how Emmett’s friends responded and what they went through in the hours after. After one of them contacted Global Rescue via a satellite device, the book describes the chain of actions that followed: how the Alaska Rescue Coordination Center was alerted, how personnel were recruited, and the many challenges they faced—unpredictable weather, difficult terrain, and the gripping rescue process. It really highlights the rescuers’ composure, courage, and trust in one another, ultimately achieving a successful hoist rescue.

Part III centers on the aftermath of Emmett’s rescue—his long and difficult journey of recovery, and the harsh realities faced by anyone who endures a similar fate. The book explores the profound physical and relational changes, as well as the unspeakable loss of physical ability, identity, lifestyle, and normalcy. It also reflects on how the climbing community and culture perceive and respond to such dangers.


The author also weaves in his own journey as a climber, describing how his perspective on risk evolved from initial obliviousness to a much deeper awareness. He also references other climbers, including international figures, and their close encounters with accidents and the inherent dangers of the sport.


I found this book to be objective, clearly organized, and overall an excellent resource for climbers and their friends to better understand the ever-present risks involved—and what it’s like when someone experiences a serious accident. It also has value for a broader audience, especially those who have suffered, or know someone who has suffered, a spinal cord injury—a tragedy that is, unfortunately, not uncommon.


这本书是徒步朋友推荐给我的。故事开篇讲述了攀岩社区从户外岩石和冰雪攀登，到室内攀岩运动的演变，以及攀登者心态从追求冒险到更注重运动本身的转变。书中介绍了四位年轻主角，描写了他们作为攀登者的成长和彼此间的关系。故事發生在遙遠偏僻的阿拉斯加Hidden Moutains。

第二部分聚焦于主角Emmett从高处坠落、头部和脊柱受伤后的救援过程。朋友们通过卫星设备求助之後，阿拉斯加救援中心迅速启动救援，面对恶劣天气和复杂地形，最终成功实施吊运救援。书中生動描寫了救援者的冷静、勇气和团队合作精神。

第三部分讲述了Emmett获救后的康复之路，以及他和类似遭遇者必须面对的身体和心理挑战。书中也反思了攀岩社区对风险的看法。

作者还穿插了自己攀登经历，对风险的认知逐渐加深，并提及其他攀登者的故事。总体来说，这本书客观、条理清晰，不仅适合攀登者及其家人朋友了解风险，也适合更广泛的读者，尤其是经历或周圍有脊髓损伤的人。

當了一回追星族

 當了一回追星族

今天是人類首次登頂珠峰72週年紀念日，也是今年珠峰登山季落幕的時候。1953年5月29日，新西蘭登山家Edmund Hillary和他的尼泊爾嚮導Tenzing Norgay成功登頂世界最高峰，揭開了人類攀登史的新篇章。每年四、五月，數百名登山健將齊聚珠峰大本營，挑戰這座巔峰。這其中有無數成功的故事，也有不少悲劇。隨著登山商業化的推廣，攀登珠峰從專業人士的專利，變成了普通登山愛好者也能追逐的夢想。Jon Krakauer的《Into Thin Air》（後來改編成電影《Everest》）就深入探討了珠峰攀登商業化帶來的潛在問題。2015年尼泊爾大地震又奪走多人性命，登山季也因此提前結束。地震讓珠峰向西南方向移動了約3厘米，雖然高度沒什麼變化，但據說改變了希拉里台階的地勢。關於攀登珠峰產生的垃圾、高度危險、道德底線等話題也屢屢引發爭論。儘管如此，攀登世界第一高峰依然是許多人的夢想與目標。

這次因為尼泊爾徒步的機緣，我在Instagram上追蹤了三位攀登珠峰的人。第一位是我從未謀面的英國人，退役海軍Mitch Hutchcraft。我是在出發前偶然在網上看到他的故事。他去年9月15日開始挑戰史上最長的鐵人三項——從英國到珠穆朗瑪峰頂。他先是游過34公里的英吉利海峽，然後騎車1萬公里穿越歐洲，再從印度跑步到尼泊爾，全程900公里。這還沒完——他還徒步抵達珠峰大本營，這一路已經瘦了15公斤，後來的照片都是形容憔悴，鬍子頭髮很長m在登頂前幾天喉嚨完全啞了，發不出聲音。他在5月11日登頂珠峰，實現了兒時的夢想。

第二位是一位日本年輕人，在Dingboche時我們住在同一家山屋。他剛進來時，我還以為是位年輕女士，因為帽子和太陽眼鏡遮住了一張乾淨秀氣的臉。我問他參加哪條徒步線路，他的嚮導回答：“攀登珠穆朗瑪峰。”這讓我大吃一驚！我問起他怎樣發展了這項愛好，被他嚴肅的更正說，“不是愛好，是使命”。 我又問他之前爬過哪些山；他說他只有一年半的登山經驗，上次攀登的是Manaslu（8156米）。他參加的是日本登山隊，其他隊員已在大本營。他昨天還帶著發燒趕來——難怪剛到時嘴唇發紫。他今年33歲，在東京擁有幾家美容店和一家純素烘焙店。看他後來的貼文，真能感受到過程的艱辛。他提到臉都快凍傷了，到達營地時一躺下就動彈不得，攀登和下撤時常常感到孤獨和恐懼，只能一步一步往前走。即便如此，他還是堅持下來，最終14日早上成功登頂。他的文字是日文，翻譯器譯的不是很通順，但仍能感受到他對這段歷程的深刻感慨。

   

紅衣服是Morisho的嚮導，僅陪他到大本營，他另有登山嚮導。後面黑衣人是Morisho. 

第三位是65歲的美國人Len，也是住在同一個山屋時認識的。他看起來完全不像六十多歲的人，非常有活力，心態積極向上，這次他的兒子陪他一起走到大本營。這是他第二次嘗試攀登珠峰，為了適應高原，他在家裡用低氧帳篷訓練了400小時。他已經成功登頂六大洲的最高峰，還在南極滑過雪。如果這次能登頂珠峰，再去北極滑雪，他就能獲得“探險家大滿貫”稱號。他還完成過多次橫穿美國的騎行，是企業家、作家、演講人和慈善家。每次冒險他都會為患者或殘疾人募捐。他5月13日晚上離開大本營，好幾天都沒消息，讓我很擔心，所幸最後也成功登頂，他最近的貼文描述了自己如何雙腿發顫，一度喘不過氣來，到希拉里台階時體力已經消耗過半，因著嚮導和sherpa的鼓勵和支持選擇繼續，最後於21號登頂，這一路經歷下來似乎身體被大山收去了一半，但他終於實現了七大洲大滿貫，只剩下北極滑雪就可以拿到探險家大滿貫的稱號了。

還有一位被人稱為“Mountain Queen”尼泊爾女登山家Lhakpa Sherpa，她成功登頂十次，創下女性登頂珠峰次數最多的世界紀錄，被譽為“珠峰女王”。她的故事被拍成紀錄片《Mountain Queen: The Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa》。今年她和女兒一起來到大本營，但這次未能登頂，她說被珠峰打敗可以接受。

其實，最不為人所知的是尼泊爾的嚮導和背夫們。沒有他們，珠峰攀登者就沒有了先驅和後盾。每年都是當地的sherpa先鋪設繩索、梯子，為攀登開路。他們不僅面臨同樣的艱辛和挑戰，還要照顧客戶的需求，是幕後的無名英雄。 他們本身也是傑出的攀登者， 其中55歲的Kami Rita Sherpa今年再次登頂，創下31次登頂紀錄，被譽為“珠峰之王”。他為了供應家庭，從很小就做背夫，也做過大本營的廚師，後來成為嚮導， 24歲第一次登頂珠峰，有時候一個登山季登頂兩次，但創造登頂紀錄本身並不是追求的目標，攀登珠峰只是他一直盡職盡責又勝任的工作。

除了前面提到的那位夏尔巴的成就之外，今年还有一位夏尔巴人在挑战体能和意志力方面完成了另一項無與倫比的壯舉。对于大多数登山者来说，能够攀登一次高达29,032英尺的珠穆朗玛峰顶峰，已经是一生的荣耀。然而，来自尼泊尔小村庄、年仅29岁的Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa，却在短短十五天内四次登頂珠峰，在常人难以想象的时间内挑战了人类极限的耐力与适应能力。

和Mitch Hutchcraft花了200多天完成超長鐵人三項截然不同的是紐約商人/工程師Andrew Ushakov。他從紐約出發飛往尼泊爾，僅用3天23小時7分鐘就登上珠峰頂峰。他並非職業運動員，2020年才開始登山，也在家用低氧帳篷訓練。雖然攀登過程中使用了氧氣，但能在極短時間內完成高海拔適應並登頂珠峰，也屬於開創了歷史先河。

以上說的登山者都是使用補充氧氣的攀登方式，還有一些純粹主義者選擇alpine style，不用氧氣攀登珠峰，難度自然更高。不論哪種方式，攀登珠峰都是對個人極限的挑戰，大山允許他們通過，向他們展示了偉大的身軀，也向他們收取了昂貴的路費，對他們我只有仰望。

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Epilogue)

 Epilogue (Which Should Have Been the Prologue)

I haven’t explained why I chose Everest Base Camp (EBC) or why I decided on the Three Passes trek.

I hadn’t really thought about Nepal until last December, just before Christmas, when a friend asked if I wanted to join them for EBC and Gokyo Lakes. I half-heartedly agreed to look into it.

Three years ago, I was invited to trek Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash-a 10-day, 9-night camping trip through the Andes and alpine lakes. That trek required walking and sleeping at elevations between 4,000 and 5,000 meters. Due to a flight delay, catching a bad cold early on, and not taking Diamox consistently, I struggled. Although I persevered, walking every step and crossing two 5,000-meter passes, but it was very tough. Afterwards, I concluded that maybe 5,000 meters was my limit, and with so many beautiful places to hike at lower altitudes, perhaps I should stick to those. For two years, I did. Even last fall, when I heard two friends were planning a trip to Nepal for this spring, I wasn’t interested.

But after that December invitation, I contacted several travel agencies in Nepal. The more I talked, the more interested I became. Inspired by another friend, I learned about the Three Passes route. She was planning to travel solo with a guide and porter in March. I discovered that the traditional EBC trek is an out-and-back route to Base Camp, which doesn’t even offer the best views of Everest. In contrast, the Three Passes or EBC + Gokyo Lakes routes form a loop, crossing two or three passes over 5,000 meters, and offer better scenery-which quickly became my goal. I also realized that solo travel would allow me to customize my plan and be more flexible, thus increasing my chances of success. Before I knew it, the idea became real.

In February, I finalized my trekking company-High Paths Treks and Expeditions-paid the deposit, and bought my plane tickets. While researching, I read somewhere, “If you can dream it, you can do it.” I dreamed of this, but could I actually do it? Before I left, I had serious self-doubt and suffered from imposter syndrome. I questioned my strength and fitness-who was I to think I could do this? I was so unsure that I told very few people about my plans, and I certainly didn’t mention attempting the more difficult Three Passes trek. But I also knew there was only one way to find out: by being there and fighting each day.

What’s more, although I enjoy solo travel, just weeks before leaving, I worried about being scammed. I’d have to pay the balance before receiving any services-what if the guide didn’t show up? These are things you don’t worry about with a group.

To make anything happen, you have to get to the starting line. Somehow, I got myself to Nepal and to the start. From there, it was about taking one day at a time, facing each task as it came. On this trip, we crossed three passes, climbed three hills, visited Everest Base Camp, and slept at an altitude as high as 5,160 meters, stepping on eight places above 5,000 meters in total. It wasn’t easy, especially when I caught a cold, couldn’t sleep well, and didn’t like the food. The harsh elements-the cold, lack of showers, no running water or flushing toilets-were tough, and I didn’t enjoy those parts of the experience, but you can’t pick and choose. Where else can you see such jagged mountains, each more beautiful and impressive than the last?

Thanks to my family for giving me the freedom and trust to pursue these adventures. They never questioned my desire and allow me to be myself. Because of their support, I can move forward and turn my dreams into reality.

Thank you, too, friends, for your company and encouragement on this journey. I didn’t expect anyone to be interested in reading my daily accounts, but to my surprise, several people told me they actually read them. This is the first time I’ve journaled and documented my experiences during a trip. I wrote in English so my kids can know where I’ve been and what I’ve seen and experienced-and it turns out to be faster and more freeing for me, too. It’s been a fun 15-day journey, and it’s been a joy sharing it with you!  

List of 5,000m+ Locations Visited During the Trek:

1. Nagarjun Hill near Dingboche (5,100m)  – Day 6

2. Kongma-La Pass (5,545m) – Day 8

        3.     Everest Base Camp (5,364m) – Day 9

        4.     Kala Patthar (5,650m) – Day 9

5. Cho-La Pass (5,420m)  – Day 11

6. Gokyo Ri (5,360m) – Day 12

7. Renjo-La Pass (5,345m) – Day 13

8. GorakShep (5,160m) – Night 9

(Note: This is a high-altitude settlement, not a pass or hill, but included here for reference.)

        

        Totaling 159.3km

Lessons and Tips

• Go slow, especially during the first few days of ascent. There’s no reward for rushing. Take breaks-even standing breaks help. Sip water regularly and have small amounts of energy bars or gels.

• Hydrate well after arriving at your lodging. Buy 1–2 liters of hot water or tea and keep drinking. Staying hydrated helps you recover faster and reduces the risk of altitude sickness. You can also pour hot water into a Nalgene bottle and tuck it into your sleeping bag as a heat source.

• Food becomes less satisfying at higher altitudes. Bring your own healthy snacks for longer days, such as energy bars, trail mix, chocolate, nuts, dried fruit, salt sticks, or electrolyte packets. Protein powder is also helpful-it can be added to hot water or tea.

• Essential medications to bring: Diamox, ibuprofen, Benadryl, anti-diarrheal medicine, cold/flu medicine, and cough drops.

• Lip balm with sun protection is a must. A buff is also very useful for avoiding dust and sunburn.

• Layer your clothing, and don’t overdress. You’ll warm up quickly once you start walking.

• For better views and more challenge, choose the EBC + Gokyo Lakes or Three Passes trek over the standard EBC route. Counter-clockwise is generally easier.

• Avoid showers past Namche (3,400m). Use dry shampoo, wet wipes, or sponge baths instead.

Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the journey!