當了一回追星族

 當了一回追星族

今天是人類首次登頂珠峰72週年紀念日，也是今年珠峰登山季落幕的時候。1953年5月29日，新西蘭登山家Edmund Hillary和他的尼泊爾嚮導Tenzing Norgay成功登頂世界最高峰，揭開了人類攀登史的新篇章。每年四、五月，數百名登山健將齊聚珠峰大本營，挑戰這座巔峰。這其中有無數成功的故事，也有不少悲劇。隨著登山商業化的推廣，攀登珠峰從專業人士的專利，變成了普通登山愛好者也能追逐的夢想。Jon Krakauer的《Into Thin Air》（後來改編成電影《Everest》）就深入探討了珠峰攀登商業化帶來的潛在問題。2015年尼泊爾大地震又奪走多人性命，登山季也因此提前結束。地震讓珠峰向西南方向移動了約3厘米，雖然高度沒什麼變化，但據說改變了希拉里台階的地勢。關於攀登珠峰產生的垃圾、高度危險、道德底線等話題也屢屢引發爭論。儘管如此，攀登世界第一高峰依然是許多人的夢想與目標。

這次因為尼泊爾徒步的機緣，我在Instagram上追蹤了三位攀登珠峰的人。第一位是我從未謀面的英國人，退役海軍Mitch Hutchcraft。我是在出發前偶然在網上看到他的故事。他去年9月15日開始挑戰史上最長的鐵人三項——從英國到珠穆朗瑪峰頂。他先是游過34公里的英吉利海峽，然後騎車1萬公里穿越歐洲，再從印度跑步到尼泊爾，全程900公里。這還沒完——他還徒步抵達珠峰大本營，這一路已經瘦了15公斤，後來的照片都是形容憔悴，鬍子頭髮很長m在登頂前幾天喉嚨完全啞了，發不出聲音。他在5月11日登頂珠峰，實現了兒時的夢想。

第二位是一位日本年輕人，在Dingboche時我們住在同一家山屋。他剛進來時，我還以為是位年輕女士，因為帽子和太陽眼鏡遮住了一張乾淨秀氣的臉。我問他參加哪條徒步線路，他的嚮導回答：“攀登珠穆朗瑪峰。”這讓我大吃一驚！我問起他怎樣發展了這項愛好，被他嚴肅的更正說，“不是愛好，是使命”。 我又問他之前爬過哪些山；他說他只有一年半的登山經驗，上次攀登的是Manaslu（8156米）。他參加的是日本登山隊，其他隊員已在大本營。他昨天還帶著發燒趕來——難怪剛到時嘴唇發紫。他今年33歲，在東京擁有幾家美容店和一家純素烘焙店。看他後來的貼文，真能感受到過程的艱辛。他提到臉都快凍傷了，到達營地時一躺下就動彈不得，攀登和下撤時常常感到孤獨和恐懼，只能一步一步往前走。即便如此，他還是堅持下來，最終14日早上成功登頂。他的文字是日文，翻譯器譯的不是很通順，但仍能感受到他對這段歷程的深刻感慨。

   

紅衣服是Morisho的嚮導，僅陪他到大本營，他另有登山嚮導。後面黑衣人是Morisho. 

第三位是65歲的美國人Len，也是住在同一個山屋時認識的。他看起來完全不像六十多歲的人，非常有活力，心態積極向上，這次他的兒子陪他一起走到大本營。這是他第二次嘗試攀登珠峰，為了適應高原，他在家裡用低氧帳篷訓練了400小時。他已經成功登頂六大洲的最高峰，還在南極滑過雪。如果這次能登頂珠峰，再去北極滑雪，他就能獲得“探險家大滿貫”稱號。他還完成過多次橫穿美國的騎行，是企業家、作家、演講人和慈善家。每次冒險他都會為患者或殘疾人募捐。他5月13日晚上離開大本營，好幾天都沒消息，讓我很擔心，所幸最後也成功登頂，他最近的貼文描述了自己如何雙腿發顫，一度喘不過氣來，到希拉里台階時體力已經消耗過半，因著嚮導和sherpa的鼓勵和支持選擇繼續，最後於21號登頂，這一路經歷下來似乎身體被大山收去了一半，但他終於實現了七大洲大滿貫，只剩下北極滑雪就可以拿到探險家大滿貫的稱號了。

還有一位被人稱為“Mountain Queen”尼泊爾女登山家Lhakpa Sherpa，她成功登頂十次，創下女性登頂珠峰次數最多的世界紀錄，被譽為“珠峰女王”。她的故事被拍成紀錄片《Mountain Queen: The Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa》。今年她和女兒一起來到大本營，但這次未能登頂，她說被珠峰打敗可以接受。

其實，最不為人所知的是尼泊爾的嚮導和背夫們。沒有他們，珠峰攀登者就沒有了先驅和後盾。每年都是當地的sherpa先鋪設繩索、梯子，為攀登開路。他們不僅面臨同樣的艱辛和挑戰，還要照顧客戶的需求，是幕後的無名英雄。 他們本身也是傑出的攀登者， 其中55歲的Kami Rita Sherpa今年再次登頂，創下31次登頂紀錄，被譽為“珠峰之王”。他為了供應家庭，從很小就做背夫，也做過大本營的廚師，後來成為嚮導， 24歲第一次登頂珠峰，有時候一個登山季登頂兩次，但創造登頂紀錄本身並不是追求的目標，攀登珠峰只是他一直盡職盡責又勝任的工作。

除了前面提到的那位夏尔巴的成就之外，今年还有一位夏尔巴人在挑战体能和意志力方面完成了另一項無與倫比的壯舉。对于大多数登山者来说，能够攀登一次高达29,032英尺的珠穆朗玛峰顶峰，已经是一生的荣耀。然而，来自尼泊尔小村庄、年仅29岁的Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa，却在短短十五天内四次登頂珠峰，在常人难以想象的时间内挑战了人类极限的耐力与适应能力。

和Mitch Hutchcraft花了200多天完成超長鐵人三項截然不同的是紐約商人/工程師Andrew Ushakov。他從紐約出發飛往尼泊爾，僅用3天23小時7分鐘就登上珠峰頂峰。他並非職業運動員，2020年才開始登山，也在家用低氧帳篷訓練。雖然攀登過程中使用了氧氣，但能在極短時間內完成高海拔適應並登頂珠峰，也屬於開創了歷史先河。

以上說的登山者都是使用補充氧氣的攀登方式，還有一些純粹主義者選擇alpine style，不用氧氣攀登珠峰，難度自然更高。不論哪種方式，攀登珠峰都是對個人極限的挑戰，大山允許他們通過，向他們展示了偉大的身軀，也向他們收取了昂貴的路費，對他們我只有仰望。

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Epilogue)

 Epilogue (Which Should Have Been the Prologue)

I haven’t explained why I chose Everest Base Camp (EBC) or why I decided on the Three Passes trek.

I hadn’t really thought about Nepal until last December, just before Christmas, when a friend asked if I wanted to join them for EBC and Gokyo Lakes. I half-heartedly agreed to look into it.

Three years ago, I was invited to trek Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash-a 10-day, 9-night camping trip through the Andes and alpine lakes. That trek required walking and sleeping at elevations between 4,000 and 5,000 meters. Due to a flight delay, catching a bad cold early on, and not taking Diamox consistently, I struggled. Although I persevered, walking every step and crossing two 5,000-meter passes, but it was very tough. Afterwards, I concluded that maybe 5,000 meters was my limit, and with so many beautiful places to hike at lower altitudes, perhaps I should stick to those. For two years, I did. Even last fall, when I heard two friends were planning a trip to Nepal for this spring, I wasn’t interested.

But after that December invitation, I contacted several travel agencies in Nepal. The more I talked, the more interested I became. Inspired by another friend, I learned about the Three Passes route. She was planning to travel solo with a guide and porter in March. I discovered that the traditional EBC trek is an out-and-back route to Base Camp, which doesn’t even offer the best views of Everest. In contrast, the Three Passes or EBC + Gokyo Lakes routes form a loop, crossing two or three passes over 5,000 meters, and offer better scenery-which quickly became my goal. I also realized that solo travel would allow me to customize my plan and be more flexible, thus increasing my chances of success. Before I knew it, the idea became real.

In February, I finalized my trekking company-High Paths Treks and Expeditions-paid the deposit, and bought my plane tickets. While researching, I read somewhere, “If you can dream it, you can do it.” I dreamed of this, but could I actually do it? Before I left, I had serious self-doubt and suffered from imposter syndrome. I questioned my strength and fitness-who was I to think I could do this? I was so unsure that I told very few people about my plans, and I certainly didn’t mention attempting the more difficult Three Passes trek. But I also knew there was only one way to find out: by being there and fighting each day.

What’s more, although I enjoy solo travel, just weeks before leaving, I worried about being scammed. I’d have to pay the balance before receiving any services-what if the guide didn’t show up? These are things you don’t worry about with a group.

To make anything happen, you have to get to the starting line. Somehow, I got myself to Nepal and to the start. From there, it was about taking one day at a time, facing each task as it came. On this trip, we crossed three passes, climbed three hills, visited Everest Base Camp, and slept at an altitude as high as 5,160 meters, stepping on eight places above 5,000 meters in total. It wasn’t easy, especially when I caught a cold, couldn’t sleep well, and didn’t like the food. The harsh elements-the cold, lack of showers, no running water or flushing toilets-were tough, and I didn’t enjoy those parts of the experience, but you can’t pick and choose. Where else can you see such jagged mountains, each more beautiful and impressive than the last?

Thanks to my family for giving me the freedom and trust to pursue these adventures. They never questioned my desire and allow me to be myself. Because of their support, I can move forward and turn my dreams into reality.

Thank you, too, friends, for your company and encouragement on this journey. I didn’t expect anyone to be interested in reading my daily accounts, but to my surprise, several people told me they actually read them. This is the first time I’ve journaled and documented my experiences during a trip. I wrote in English so my kids can know where I’ve been and what I’ve seen and experienced-and it turns out to be faster and more freeing for me, too. It’s been a fun 15-day journey, and it’s been a joy sharing it with you!  

List of 5,000m+ Locations Visited During the Trek:

1. Nagarjun Hill near Dingboche (5,100m)  – Day 6

2. Kongma-La Pass (5,545m) – Day 8

        3.     Everest Base Camp (5,364m) – Day 9

        4.     Kala Patthar (5,650m) – Day 9

5. Cho-La Pass (5,420m)  – Day 11

6. Gokyo Ri (5,360m) – Day 12

7. Renjo-La Pass (5,345m) – Day 13

8. GorakShep (5,160m) – Night 9

(Note: This is a high-altitude settlement, not a pass or hill, but included here for reference.)

        

        Totaling 159.3km

Lessons and Tips

• Go slow, especially during the first few days of ascent. There’s no reward for rushing. Take breaks-even standing breaks help. Sip water regularly and have small amounts of energy bars or gels.

• Hydrate well after arriving at your lodging. Buy 1–2 liters of hot water or tea and keep drinking. Staying hydrated helps you recover faster and reduces the risk of altitude sickness. You can also pour hot water into a Nalgene bottle and tuck it into your sleeping bag as a heat source.

• Food becomes less satisfying at higher altitudes. Bring your own healthy snacks for longer days, such as energy bars, trail mix, chocolate, nuts, dried fruit, salt sticks, or electrolyte packets. Protein powder is also helpful-it can be added to hot water or tea.

• Essential medications to bring: Diamox, ibuprofen, Benadryl, anti-diarrheal medicine, cold/flu medicine, and cough drops.

• Lip balm with sun protection is a must. A buff is also very useful for avoiding dust and sunburn.

• Layer your clothing, and don’t overdress. You’ll warm up quickly once you start walking.

• For better views and more challenge, choose the EBC + Gokyo Lakes or Three Passes trek over the standard EBC route. Counter-clockwise is generally easier.

• Avoid showers past Namche (3,400m). Use dry shampoo, wet wipes, or sponge baths instead.

Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the journey!

Through the Three Passes - An Internal Journey on the Everest Trek (Day 15)

 Day 15: 2025/4/30 Namche (3440m) to Lukla (2840m)

Today is my last day of walking as we retrace our steps back to Lukla, where this trek began 15 days ago. We left shortly after 7 a.m., briskly descending the stairs of Namche. Determined not to lag behind, I followed Dawa closely. Amazingly, on my last day, my legs didn’t ache and my knees were pain-free!

Before leaving Namche, we stopped at a spot where each trekker picks up 1 kg of waste to carry from Namche to Lukla, participating in a waste removal program. If every trekker does this, together they could remove 80,000 kg of waste from the trail. I felt this was the least I could do and was glad to participate. 

There were more animals on the trail today than when we ascended - dzos, but mostly mule teams carrying heavy loads, along with porters transporting construction materials. 

We first reached the Hillary Bridge, this time walking in the opposite direction, then followed the white river down, crossing more suspension bridges. We paused for tea at the same restaurant where we had lunch on our way up. Soon, we arrived at the park entrance, where we took a group photo to commemorate our teamwork and the completion of the trek.

I recalled the day we started and how much was unknown to me then. Now, retracing my steps, the scenes-villages, stupas, mani stones, prayer wheels, and bridges-all look familiar.  After walking over 7 hours and covering about 20 km, we reached Lukla at 2:15 p.m. We dropped off our waste packages at the park offices, and received a coin made from water bottle caps as a memento.

Strolling the streets of Lukla again, I finally finished! I began with serious self-doubt but brought myself to the starting line and somehow managed to the finish line. It was not easy, but it’s not impossible! Maybe I am physically battered a little-with sunburn, chafed nose and mouth, a cold, and Khumbu cough, and probably some weight loss-but I feel renewed in spirit and confidence. Above all, I feel humbled and grateful for this opportunity and experience.